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Natural GlowFalling From Grace

 

balancing the scales

With the onset of menopause and the natural effects of aging, your skin may need a little extra boost as its ability to renew itself slows down. With estrogen in decline, it doesn't help that there is also a decline in collagen, which is stimulated by estrogen and helps give the smooth skin of youth. But drastic steps are not in order, it just takes some important maintenance to get back your glow and slow the aging process.

Preventive Maintenance As you can imagine, skin takes quite a beating as the outer layer of the body. Yet no matter whether you've worn sunscreen religiously or spent your younger years smoking, drinking, and basking in the sun, one fact remains: your skin ages more quickly after menopause.

That said, you can take effective, affordable steps to slow this aging process, says Wilma Bergfeld, M.D., head of clinical research in the department of dermatology at the Cleveland Clinic in Ohio. "You don't have to accept aging skin," she says. "Adding a few inexpensive products to your daily routine can make a dramatic difference." 

Love Those Layers Much like an onion, your skin is composed of layers. The top layer, the epidermis, is the toughest but thinnest. It is constantly creating new cells that rise to the surface, causing older cells to flake off. Next comes the multilayered dermis, which houses the blood supply, sebaceous (oil) glands, collagen, and nerve receptors. Under the dermis lies a layer of fat.

When levels of estrogen and other hormones vary around menopause, these layers begin to thin. Estrogen is vital for keeping the skin plumped up and responsive, says Bergfeld. Specialized cells in your skin called fibroblasts house estrogen receptors on their cell membranes. When estrogen levels drop, these fibroblasts don't produce as much protein, especially collagen, which provides bulk to the dermis. So the epidermis begins to "float" over the dermis, explains Val Lambros, M.D., a plastic surgeon in Newport Beach, Calif. It then bunches and crinkles like the skin on an overripe peach.  

Falling estrogen levels also affect the blood vessels in your skin, making them stiffer and narrower, reducing blood flow. That, in turn, reduces the amount of oxygen and nutrients your skin gets, starving it. Prevention is the best remedy, but it's never too late to start giving your skin the TLC it needs. 

Skin Changes to ExpectChanges in hormones around menopause results in:

Dry skin. As collagen shrinks and fades, and blood vessels deliver fewer nutrients, the oil glands in your skin don't work as well. Even if you had oily skin in your 30s and 40s, you'll get dry skin after menopause. "Enzymes in the skin do not renew as quickly, so less oil and vitamin E are produced, causing the skin to dry out," says Jeannette Graf, M.D., a dermatologist and skin-care ingredient consultant in Great Neck, N.Y. 

Acne. Just as when you were going through adolescence, the shifting hormone levels of menopause can trigger breakouts, usually in the jaw area, says Elizabeth A. Liotta, M.D., a dermatologist in private practice in Rockville, Md.  But don't reach for your teenager's alcohol-based, over-the-counter remedy; it will only dry and irritate your skin. You need something specifically formulated for menopausal women, such as water-based, over-the-counter acne gels and lotions designed for adults; prescription low-dose topical antibiotics; or even birth control pills.

Rosacea. If you have rosacea, a skin condition that generally causes flushing and redness on the face, you may suffer more flares during perimenopause, when hot flashes increase skin temperature.

Reduced immunity. Compromised blood flow to the skin also affects its ability to heal. The consequence: you bruise more easily, cuts take longer to heal, and ultraviolet light penetrates the skin more deeply, increasing your risk of skin cancer, says Bergfeld.

Feed Your Skin

Although there is a wonderful array of products on the market to help you along, working from the inside out can do wonders for restoring a healthy glow to below-par skin.

Hydration. Water is a great purifier, so drink throughout the day whether you're thirsty or not, aiming to drink at least six glasses a day. 

Rest. The regenerative effects of sleep and rest on your skin are unequalled. Sleep can help metabolize free radicals that are thought to accelerate aging. A short nap of 20 to 30 minutes during the day can impart positive psychological effects, as well as leaving your skin refreshed.

Stop smoking.
Nicotine constricts blood flow, making the skin look gray, dull, and lifeless. Not only that, it speeds collagen breakdown. Plus smokers have more wrinkles from squinting and puckering the lips. Avoid second-hand smoke, as it also has harmful affects on the skin.

Vitamin C. Dark red berries, cherries, and purple grapes all contain skin-restoring vitamin C. This nutrient increases collagen production, which is great news for tired, sagging skin. Blend a super-healthy smoothie of raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries with a cup of orange juice-your skin will thank you!

Antioxidants. Nuts and seeds are packed with vitamins A and E, both vital for good skin health. Carry a mix of sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, almonds, and walnuts to snack on, and know that you're doing your skin a favor providing it with protective antioxidants.

Catechins. There's a reason why green tea is an active ingredient in so many new skin-care products: It's bursting with a particular kind of antioxidant called catechins. These are said to slow the aging process. Try and drink at least two cups a day to feel the benefits, but make sure to choose a decaffeinated variety so that it doesn't interfere with sleep.

Supplements. It's not always possible to get all the nutrients you need from diet alone, so take a daily multivitamin.

Five Steps to Perfect Skin
Experts recommend these five essentials to take care
of your face every day.

Use a moisturizing cleanser. Detergent soaps are too drying for your face and body. For your face, switch to a moisturizing, foaming cleanser, and use no more than twice a day, once in the morning before applying makeup and once at night, says Graf. For the shower, use a moisturizing body wash. Because hot water can dehydrate your skin, keep your time in the shower to a minimum.

Exfoliate gently. Cell division slows with age, so daily exfoliation is important to ensure that active ingredients are properly absorbed. Before you go to bed, use a cream or lotion that contains lactic acid, glycolic acid, alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), or poly hydroxy acid (PHA). (Note: do not use if you have rosacea; these ingredients will make your skin even redder.) In addition to removing dead skin cells and other facial debris, these products may help restore skin thickness and reduce acne breakouts. In one study of 65 women, a 15 percent glycolic acid solution increased skin thickness by 27 percent.

Make moisturizing a priority. To hydrate your skin, use a moisturizer on your face and body twice a day. For your face, choose a fragrance-free moisturizer designed specifically for the face; using a body cream on your face can trigger acne breakouts. During the day, wear a lighter cream or lotion-based moisturizer that contains an SPF (sun protection factor) of at least 15, preferably 30, says Liotta.

Look for facial moisturizers that contain soy and/or retinol. Soy contains phytoestrogens, plant-based estrogens that may mimic the action of your body's natural estrogen, says Graf. "On your skin, soy works like an antioxidant and offers deep moisturizing properties," she says. It also can lighten and even skin tone, inhibit facial hair growth (common after menopause), and shrink pores, she says. Graf recommends unpasteurized soy-based products. Retinol, a precursor to vitamin A, helps restore collagen and skin thickness, forestalling the sagging and wrinkling that tend to occur after menopause. It also evens out blotchy skin tones and helps prevent acne breakouts. (But, again, don't use if you have rosacea; it will make your skin redder.)

Use a body moisturizer that contains urea and follow up with a body oil, such as almond oil, to help replace the natural oils in your skin. Your nails will also become more brittle after menopause, so use a nail moisturizer that contains lanolin.

Wear sunscreen religiously. Wear sunscreen or sun block every day, even in the winter, says Graf. "Everyone thinks about UVB rays when they think of sun exposure. These rays, more prevalent in the summer, tend to cause sunburns. UVA rays, however, are just as intense all year round, and these rays penetrate more deeply. They are the ones that cause collagen degradation, freckling, and wrinkling."

Your moisturizer and makeup foundation should both contain an SPF of 15 or higher. This protects you as you walk to and from your car and sit in front of windows. If you spend any extended time outdoors, use a stand-alone sunscreen or sun block and apply every two hours.

Some moisturizers also contain topical antioxidants such as vitamin C and green tea, grape seed, and cranberry extracts, which, when mixed with sunscreen, can help prevent skin tumors, according to a study from the University of Scranton in Pennsylvania.

In addition to preventing free-radical damage induced by ultraviolet rays (as well as air pollution), these topical antioxidants can help calm rosacea, says Liotta.

Use a night cream. Applying a night cream that works on skin while you sleep will add a deep moisturizing benefit that will soon show results. Again, a deep-penetrating retinol or soy-based night cream is advised, but any moisturizing treatment that works through the night will provide results. Vitamin-based moisturizers are also recommended. Ask your skin care professional for advice on products that may best suit your skin type, and update your products as your skin care needs change. 

 

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